Our journey starts at Shadwell DLR, which I have only come to know because you can get a 2 bedroom flat for £150k, even though it is literally a stone’s throw from the city. I soon found out why. Even approaching the station, it is the least pleasant suburb I have seen so far in London. Yes, I have been to Elephant and Castle, Deptford, Hackney and Stepney. The reason is not because the area is dirty, or the people. It’s simply the hideous council ex-authority building scattered around the station. These were build in the 1960’s after WWII, when Britain had no money after the war. Today they are cheap and affordable homes to mostly the Indian and Pakistani community. As a renter I wouldn’t live here even if it’s so cheap, simply because there doesn’t appear to be any life to the place. The surrounding areas just look deprived. Unfortunately I did not take any picutures, so I guess you'll just have to come see it!
Unsurprisingly, Shadwell lives up to its name as it’s derived from Shitwell, or Shitewell originally. It is also famous for being meticulously described by Dickens in his many books, as he accounted his flings in opium dens and brothels in one of the ‘meanest’ area of London.
I make my way down towards the river, through an abandoned shopping complex and into Wapping, where the scenery begins to change dramatically. A lot of the docklands and old wharf buildings are still there, restored and converted into residential flats. Fortunately they still keep their original cranes, which were used to hurl goods over the ship. Before I knew it, I was in an upmarket area, home to young professionals working in Canary Wharf or the City, who have no doubt found themselves here for the wonderful views of the Thames.
Just before reaching the river I come across the oldest pub in the docklands, the Prospect of Whitby, said to have first opened in 1520. It was also a pub frequented by Charles Dickens. To this day it keeps the same look and charms of nearly 500 years back, and I hear the locally brewed ales inside are fantastic. Walking past the pub I reach Shadwell basin, which looked picturesque at dusk, with a sense of loneliness. It doesn’t have the poshness of Limehouse basin, which we will get to last, but nevertheless is quite beautiful.
This stretch of the Thames overlooking Canary Wharf is absolutely magnificent, as it is wider than in the West End. More so than a river, I felt the two banks were separately by sea, as I heard the powerful current of the water. Walking along the Thames, I felt the people who lived here are so privileged; they’ve definitely chosen a great spot to enjoy London. I also enjoyed seeing people going about their leisure, fishing off an abandoned but breathtakingly tall pier.
The final stretch of the walk takes us to riverside Limehouse, and we move from the middle-upper class to the truly elite. The flats here are 7 figures, and apartment blocks are catered by fancy Spanish/Italian restaurants with slick interiors, designed for residents who don’t need to cook for themselves.
The Narrow is a particularly yuppie street, frequented by young managers working in Canary Wharf, rich students from China and Japan, and others of various talent. This is where the ‘pub’ narrow sits, famously owned by Gordon Ramsay. It is what’s called a gastro pub, where finger food can set you back £15, and mains starting from £25 upwards. I don’t envision myself ever sitting in there enjoying the glorious river views, but by now I’ve had enough of the good life just doing this walk.
The walk finishes off at Limehouse basin, one of my favourite spots in London to relax or go jogging. I also pass the basin when I walk over to Canary Wharf. I always feel so lucky that such privileged, expensive delights are just 10 minute walk away from my modest existence at Mile End. Walking back home along the canal, I felt sad that in one week’s time, I’ll be in new surroundings.
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